I was lucky enough to grow up in a home where we had lots of family and friends around, which meant lots of people to feed. On those occasions, if my mum wanted to make something special that required minimal effort, she served a roast lamb shoulder. After all, roasts actually follow a concept similar to traybakes: the main ingredients are combined in a roasting tin and the oven does most of the work. In Morocco, méchoui can refer to either grilled or roast dishes, but for a lamb shoulder it typically means that it’s roasted. But, first, my take on a traditional artichoke and pea tagine, a popular dish typically enjoyed in spring. In Moroccan homes, tagines are served simply with bread, without sides, but I have found that some make excellent sauces for pasta.
Artichoke and pea tagine pasta
Here, the artichokes and peas are seasoned the traditional m’qualli way, with garlic, ground ginger and turmeric. The dish is then finished with preserved lemon and olives, common ingredients in this tagine, which add a light, briny touch. The tinned artichoke hearts, frozen peas and olives ensure you can enjoy this wholesome meal year-round, regardless of the season.
Prep 10 min
Cook 45 min
Serves 4-6
80ml olive oil, plus extra to serve
1 large onion , peeled and thinly sliced
5 garlic cloves, peeled and minced or crushed
1½ tsp ground turmeric
1½ tsp ground ginger
300ml vegetable stock
35g flat-leaf parsley, leaves and tender stems, finely chopped
Salt
1 generous pinch sugar
340g spaghetti, or other dried pasta of your choice
2 × 400g tins artichoke hearts, drained and quartered lengthways
170g frozen peas
140g pitted kalamata olives or other purple olives, drained and quartered lengthways
1–2 tbsp deseeded and finely chopped preserved lemon
30g parmesan, or a vegetarian alternative, finely grated, to serve
Put the olive oil in a large frying pan on a medium heat. Add the onions, garlic, turmeric and ginge,r and cook, stirring frequently, for three to four minutes, until fragrant. Add the stock, parsley, a teaspoon of salt, a quarter-teaspoon of pepper and the sugar, and bring to a boil, scraping the bottom of the pan occasionally. Cover the pan, turn down the heat to low, and leave to simmer, stirring occasionally so the onions don’t stick to the bottom, for 35 minutes, until the onions are soft, translucent and infused with the colour and flavours of the spices.
Meanwhile, set a large pot of water on a high heat, add a teaspoon of salt and bring to a boil. About 10 minutes before the sauce is ready, add the pasta to the boiling water and cook according to the packet instructions, until almost al dente. Reserve a cup (240ml) of the cooking water, then drain the pasta.
About five minutes before the pasta is ready, uncover the onion pan, turn up the heat to medium-low, and add the artichokes, peas, olives and a tablespoon of the preserved lemon. Cook, stirring frequently, until the peas are tender and the artichokes warmed through.
Return the drained spaghetti to the empty pasta pot, tip in the sauce and stir well to combine. Cook on a low heat, stirring occasionally and adding some of the reserved pasta cooking water a tablespoon at a time, if necessary, to loosen. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt and/or teaspoons of the preserved lemon, if you like. Serve immediately, topped with a generous drizzle of olive oil and grated parmesan.
Ras el hanout lamb shoulder méchoui with pistachio and apricot salsa
This succulent joint, infused with ras el hanout and slow-cooked, is guaranteed to be the star of any gathering. Serve with couscous, roast potatoes or good bread.
Prep 15 min
Cook 4 hr 30 min
Rest 20 min
Serves 6-8
For the ras el hanout (makes 50g)
1 tbsp ground turmeric
1 tbsp ground ginger
1 tbsp sweet paprika
1 tbsp ground cumin
1 tbsp ground coriander
2 tsp ground allspice
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground cardamom
10 gratings of fresh nutmeg or ½ tsp ground nutmeg
½ tsp ground cloves
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp dried rose petals (optional)
For the lamb
2kg bone-in lamb shoulder
3 medium onions, peeled and quartered
3 tbsp olive oil
5 garlic cloves, peeled and minced or crushed
1½ tbsp ras el hanout (see above and method)
1¼ tsp fine sea salt
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
120-180ml chicken or vegetable stock
For the pistachio and apricot salsa
1 small red onion, peeled and finely chopped
100g shelled pistachios, chopped or crushed
120g dried apricots, finely chopped
25g fresh coriander, finely chopped
4 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp white-wine vinegar
½ tsp fine sea salt, or more to taste
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4. To make the ras el hanout, combine the spices and rose petals, if using, in a small, airtight container and stir to mix. Seal and store in a cool, dark place, such as a kitchen cupboard.
Pat the lamb dry with kitchen paper and use a small sharp knife to pierce the flesh all over about 20 times.
Arrange the onions in the centre of a large roasting tin and put the lamb on top. Combine the olive oil, garlic, one and a half tablespoons of ras el hanout, and the salt and pepper in a small bowl and stir until well mixed. Pour this all over the lamb shoulder, turning to coat , then use your hands to spread it all over the lamb, making sure you work it into the incisions as well. Keep the joint fat-side up.
Pour enough stock into the roasting tin to reach a depth of about 5mm, then cover tightly with foil. Roast for three and a half to four hours, basting the meat every hour, until the lamb is tender. Carefully lift off the foil (don’t discard it) and roast the lamb for 35-45 minutes more, until the skin is crisp and golden and the meat is very tender and falling off the bone. Remove from the oven, cover loosely with the reserved foil and leave to rest for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the salsa. Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl, taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more salt if necessary.
When the lamb has rested, carve and serve immediately with the onions and pan juices, and garnish with the salsa.
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These recipes are edited extracts from Madaq: Simple Everyday Recipes with the Flavours of Morocco, by Nargisse Benkabbou, published by Quadrille at £28. To order a copy for £25.20, go to guardianbookshop.com